Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine: Paris’ Fashionable Hub for Flea Markets, Football & Fine Fare
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HI, I’M TARA!
I love sharing hidden gems far from the crowds, unique boutique hotels, and unforgettable wildlife adventures – helping you have extraordinary travel experiences.
INTRODUCTION
“We like to call Saint-Ouen Paris’s 21st arrondissement,” a local hotelier remarked with a cheeky smile.
Of course, savvy travelers will know Paris only has 20 arrondissements (or districts). But if there were a 21st, my vote would also go to Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine (or Saint-Ouen for short). With its creative energy, vintage flair, and fast-growing food and design scene, this once-overlooked northern suburb is quickly becoming the coolest corner of Greater Paris.
On a last-minute trip to Paris, a friend and I decided to make Saint-Ouen our home base, seeking a more laid-back, local experience (we had already ticked off the major sights on previous visits). Our only must-do? Wandering the stalls of Les Puces de Saint-Ouen, Paris’s most iconic flea market.
But once I realized how easy it is to get from Saint-Ouen to central Paris—just 14 minutes by metro to the gates of the Louvre—I started to think this up-and-coming neighborhood might just become my new go-to. (And that’s after 15 years of staying in Le Marais!)
A LITTLE BIT ABOUT ST. OUEN
Located just north of Paris’s 18th arrondissement and the iconic Sacré-Cœur Basilica, Saint-Ouen has long been world-renowned for its sprawling flea market—one of the largest in the world.
In recent years, it has also emerged as a culinary hotspot. Chefs and restaurateurs have been moving in from central Paris, bringing fresh energy to this once-overlooked suburb. Among them: Top Chef 2021 winner Mohamed Cheikh with his Mediterranean brasserie Meïda, and Michelin-starred Thierry Marx with his modern take on French classics at Le Bouillon du Coq.
In 2024, Saint-Ouen stepped into the global spotlight as the site of the Athletes’ Village for the Paris Olympic Games. Designed as a model for sustainable urban development, it’s now being transformed into new housing, public spaces, and creative work hubs.
And beyond its creative edge, Saint-Ouen makes a convenient base for concertgoers and sports fans alike. The Stade de France—France’s largest stadium—is just a short walk or quick metro ride away, hosting everything from Beyoncé’s Cowboy Carter Tour to the Rugby World Cup finals.
For reference, I’ve included a Google Map below showing the orientation of Saint-Ouen to central Paris, along with its location in relation to both the Louvre and Sacré-Cœur in Montmartre (click to open the interactive version).
WHAT TO DO IN SAINT OUEN
So why visit—or better yet, stay in Saint-Ouen? Let me share a few of the top highlights!
THE FLEA MARKETS
The legendary Marché aux Puces de Saint‑Ouen was officially established in 1885 when Paris’s ragpickers were pushed outside city limits. It is now one of the largest antique markets in the world, spanning 17 acres with around 3,000 vendors and over 5 million visitors a year.
The market is actually a collection of smaller markets, each with its own niche. Among the best known are Marché Vernaison, the oldest and most eclectic; Paul-Bert/Serpette, famed for high-end design and coveted antiques; and Marché Dauphine, a favorite for mid-century lovers, vintage fashion, and Europe’s largest vinyl selection.
Given its size, a first visit to this market can feel very overwhelming. Savvy visitors often hire an expert guide for a few hours before venturing off on their own treasure hunt—something well worth considering if you want to maximize your time. (I so wish we had done this!)
👉 See: Marchés aux Puces Saint-Ouen Tours (Viator.com)
While the market is technically open Friday through Monday, many vendors only sell to professionals on Fridays and fewer stalls open on Mondays—so for the fullest experience, it’s best to visit on a Saturday or Sunday.
More details can be found on the Puces de Saint Ouen official website.
DON’T MISS: While wandering Les Puces, pop into Galerie Amarrage, tucked within the market and showcasing bold graffiti and street art.
THE FOOTBALL
Okay, I get it—not everyone dreams of spending hours wandering the stalls of a flea market. I’m already plotting a return trip to Saint-Ouen with my husband, and I know exactly how to win him over: Red Star FC tickets.
Founded in 1897, Red Star is the oldest football club in Paris. With deep working-class roots, a fiercely loyal fan base, and an unmistakable sense of style (both on and off the pitch), a match here is as much about the atmosphere and people-watching as it is about the sport.
If you’re curious about the vibe, this article captures what makes Red Star so unique: How David Bellion Made Red Star F.C. Paris’s Coolest Football Club.
For game schedules and tickets, see the Redstar FC Billeterie.
THE FINE FARE
Saint‑Ouen‑sur‑Seine is having a serious culinary moment. As more chefs leave central Paris in search of space, creativity, and community, this once-overlooked suburb is quickly making a name for itself on the food scene.
One of the first to make waves was Top Chef 2021 winner Mohamed Cheikh, who opened Meïda, a Mediterranean‑inspired brasserie that blends Moroccan, Lebanese, Italian, and Spanish influences into beautifully presented mezze and mains.
Then came Le Bouillon du Coq, opened in July 2024 by celebrated chef Thierry Marx. Housed in a beautifully restored building, it revives the classic Parisian bouillon format—affordable, comforting, and unpretentious—and with a beautiful rooftop terrace.
More recently, the restaurant at Hôtel Le Charmant has brought a quieter kind of charm to the neighborhood. With two elegant dining rooms to choose from, it offers a menu rooted in seasonal French classics. On weekends, keep an eye out for special events hosted in their gorgeous backyard garden oasis.
And finally, for something to satisfy everyone in a crowd, La Communale is a lively food hall set inside a converted warehouse near the Saint-Ouen flea market. It brings together street-food vendors, pop-up shops, and live music, making it a perfect spot to grab a bite and soak up the neighborhood’s creative energy.
WHERE TO STAY IN ST. OUEN
While I have no doubt that Saint-Ouen will have plenty of stylish hotels in the coming years, for the moment, here are the two that I’m most excited to share. (Of course, a Saint-Ouen vacation rental could also be a great option.)
1. HOTEL LE CHARMANT
I couldn’t believe my luck when we discovered that a restaurant we’d booked for its glowing reviews—Le Charmant—had just opened up some beautiful rooms upstairs!
Hotel Le Charmant embodies everything I love in a boutique hotel stay: just a handful of beautifully designed rooms set within a meticulously restored mansion, paired with an excellent restaurant downstairs and a lush garden retreat out back.
Each room at Le Charmant is individually styled, with thoughtful details like plush bedding, soft lighting, and elegant vintage touches that nod to the building’s history. Modern comforts—think rain showers, quality linens, and well-chosen amenities—are seamlessly woven in, striking the perfect balance between character and comfort.
Check rates for Hotel Le Charmant on Booking.com or Expedia.
2. THE TRIBE HOTEL
The modern and stylish Tribe Hotel Saint-Ouen offers a mix of comfort and innovation with sleek, minimalistic rooms and cutting-edge amenities.
The hotel features a 24-hour lounge hub with ample space to work and play. The common areas include a bar, library, leafy patio and the french-fusion restaurant TRIBE Table.
Rooms at the Tribe Hotel Saint-Ouen are designed with comfort and style in mind, featuring air conditioning, plush bedding, sleek bathrooms, and contemporary décor.
Check rates for The Tribe Hotel on Booking.com or Expedia.
NOTE: Big concert nights book up quickly in Saint-Ouen, so you may need to widen your search. I’ve included the map below if you’d like to explore additional hotel options or vacation rentals—just be sure to read the reviews carefully.
GETTING TO AND AROUND
One of the best things about Saint-Ouen is how well connected it is to the rest of Paris. It sits on Metro Line 14, giving you quick access to the Louvre (Pyramides Station) and the Châtelet–Les Halles hub (the largest transit hub in the world, with 5 metro lines and 3 RER lines). The neighborhood is also served by Metro Line 13 (direct to Champs-Élysées and Saint-Denis) and the RER C, which connects to Orly Airport.
The RER C is especially convenient for sightseeing, with stops near the Eiffel Tower (Champ de Mars), Hôtel des Invalides, the Musée d’Orsay, Notre-Dame Cathedral (Saint-Michel), and the Jardin des Plantes (Gare d’Austerlitz).
And if you’re short on time, Uber is also a reliable option in Paris—we used it often and found it worked very smoothly.
LEARN MORE
I hope this post on Saint-Ouen-sur-Seine answered all of your questions. If there is anything else you need help with, please feel free to reach out to me via direct message on Instagram, Facebook or by email.
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