A First Timer's Guide to Skiing Zermatt, Switzerland

Affiliate Disclosure: This Zermatt Ski Holiday post contains affiliate links. If you click on a link and make a purchase, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you.

HI, I’M TARA!

I love sharing hidden gems far from the crowds, unique boutique hotels, and unforgettable wildlife adventures – helping you have extraordinary travel experiences.

More about Tara

INTRODUCTION

Ever wondered what it would be like to take a Zermatt, Switzerland ski holiday? So did my husband and I. For more than two decades together, it was one of those dream trips we always talked about—but never quite managed to pull off. The biggest hurdle? The sheer cost of flying from Canada’s west coast to the Alps, and the slightly intimidating logistics of it all.

But when we found ourselves “nearby” in February (and by nearby, I mean Spain), we figured it was finally time to make it happen. I decided to write this post because I had so many questions while planning our first Zermatt ski trip, and I wanted to make it easier for you.

Please use the menu below to jump to what you need—or start with this 90-second video to get you in a Zermatt ski vacation mood!

Table of Contents

ZERMATT VIDEO

WHY CHOOSE ZERMATT?

For our first European ski trip—and with only four nights to work with—we were looking for something specific: a destination that would deliver, even if the snow didn’t. We considered a few options, including France’s famed Trois Vallées, but ultimately chose Zermatt Ski Resort, Switzerland.

Why? We were drawn to the idea of a fairytale village tucked beneath the Matterhorn, a scenic train journey to get there, funiculars and gondolas whisking you up to the peaks, cozy fondue spots for long on-piste lunches, and a lively après-ski scene.

Transportation was another factor. Upon landing at Zurich Airport (ZRH), we knew we could hop on a train and be in Zermatt in about three and a half hours. For a first ski trip to Europe, it all felt surprisingly doable. Zermatt’s pedestrian-friendly, car-free village—with only small electric taxis and buses shuttling people around—only added to its appeal.

And while we weren’t counting on perfect snow conditions, the high elevation and glacier access at Zermatt, Switzerland ski resort seemed encouraging. The village sits at 1,620 meters (5,315 feet), and the highest gondola reaches an impressive 3,883 meters (12,740 feet). Zermatt’s Matterhorn Ski Paradise also boasts one of the longest seasons in Europe, typically running from late November through early May.

GETTING TO ZERMATT

Wondering how to get to Zermatt ski resort? Since Zermatt is car-free, the closest you can drive is to the town of Täsch (5 km away), where you’ll transfer to a 12-minute shuttle train or an electric taxi into town.

If you’re flying into Switzerland, Zermatt is easily reachable by train in under 4 hours from both Geneva and Zurich airports (with one train change along the way). This allows for a pretty seamless start to most Zermatt ski holidays.

NOTE: The closest airport to Zermatt ski resort that services international flights is actually Milan, Italy’s MXP, located 86 km away, compared to Zurich International’s ZRH at 170 km. However, Italy’s train system is less seamless, requiring at least two transfers, so the journey to Zermatt often takes longer.

From Zurich Airport (station: Zürich Flughafen), our train journey to Zermatt involved a single transfer in the town of Visp. We purchased train tickets from the Swiss Rail (SBB) office at the airport (one floor above the train platform), although kiosks were also readily available. Tickets can also be pre-purchased online at sbb.ch/en.

Trains Zurich Airport — *SBB Office ZHR*

Honestly, the whole process was quite easy. We were even able to take an elevator straight down to the train platform with our luggage still on our airport luggage cart. The most stressful part of the journey was making the 7-minute train change in the town of Visp.

TIP: Download the SBB app ahead of time. It provides helpful information like train arrival times, platform numbers, and more. I took the photo below to show you how to find the correct letter on the platform for 1st and 2nd class train cars. When you know you only have a couple of minutes to board—with, quite possibly, a bunch of luggage—you want to be in the right place!

SWISS TRAIN DISCOUNT PASSES

When you start researching train travel for Zermatt ski trips, you’ll come across a variety of money-saving Swiss Rail passes. I’m not going to lie—it’s all a bit confusing. Let me do my best to explain. (My recommendation if you’re only visiting Zermatt ski resort is at the end.)

SWISS HALF FARE CARD

Offers 50% off most trains (plus buses, boats, and mountain lifts for sightseeing) for a full month for 120 CHF. This can be a good value even for short stays—especially if you’re booking 1st class tickets or if your travels include more than just Zermatt.

NOTE: The SBB site defaults to pricing with the Half Fare Card factored in.

SAVER DAY PASS

Allows unlimited travel on a single day across most of Switzerland’s public transport network. Prices start at CHF 29 (with a Half Fare Card) or CHF 52 (without), increasing closer to your travel date. Prices vary and availability is limited. (When I booked a few weeks out, I found very little availability at the lowest price for our travel dates, so this didn’t help us.)

SWISS TRAVEL PASS

Covers unlimited travel on consecutive days throughout Switzerland, including scenic train routes and free admission to over 500 museums. It’s expensive upfront and only cost-effective if you’re traveling every day and visiting multiple destinations.

MY RECOMMENDATION TO/FROM ZERMATT

For our trip from Zurich Airport Station (Bahnhof Zürich Flughafen) to Zermatt Station (Bahnhof Zermatt GGB), an SBB office agent recommended first-class tickets along with the purchase of the Swiss Half Fare Card (+120 CHF per person), so we’d have extra space for our luggage. Even though we only used the Half Fare Card for one round trip, it still saved us about 25% on regular first-class ticket prices.

WAS 1ST CLASS WORTH IT?

On a quiet Monday, I’d say first class wasn’t worth it. We didn’t notice a significant difference between the first- and second-class train cars on this route. However, on a busy Friday afternoon, or during other peak travel times—when space is tight and everyone’s juggling luggage—the upgrade could be worth it, especially if you value a bit of peace of mind.

In most cases I’d recommend simply buying a regular second-class train ticket. Or, if you’re confident about your travel dates and times, pre-purchase a Saver Day Pass for second class. Then put the money you save toward a special lunch on the mountain!

NOTE: There is an option to reserve a seat in certain cars (ex. “family car”) on certain routes (+5 CHF) but most people do not bother.

FURTHER SKI TRIP ZERMATT LOGISTICS

Once in Zermatt, getting around is incredibly easy. The train drops you off in the heart of town, and most hotels offer complimentary electric shuttle pick-up. That said, Zermatt is so compact that many properties are just a short walk from the station –– quite manageable as long as you have rolling luggage.

Speaking of luggage—since we were also traveling elsewhere in Europe (Spain) on this trip—we packed light for Zermatt, bringing only our boots, helmets, and ski clothes. We rented skis and poles in town, which was super easy. We chose FlexRent because it was the closest to our hotel, but there are plenty of other options. (FlexRent also rents snowboards, boots, helmets, ski jackets and ski pants.)

Your mountain ski pass includes free e-bus transportation within town, and there are also plenty of e-taxis available. In our case, we walked everywhere except for one morning when we wanted to get to the gondola from our hotel (an 8-minute ride). The village is so beautiful, you’ll want to experience it at a relaxed, walking pace.

ABOUT ZERMATT MATTERHORN SKI AREA

Switzerland’s Zermatt Ski Resort is officially called Matterhorn Ski Paradise. It’s Europe’s highest ski resort, home to the world’s highest gondola (3,883 m), with 360 km of runs and 54 lifts.

It has lift access to three main ski areas, as well as the option to ski into Italy from the top of the gondola via neighboring Cervinia Ski Resort. An International ski pass can be purchased for just a small premium above a regular pass. (See tickets at: matterhornparadise.)

Skiing from Zermatt to Cervinia in Italy

NOTE: Because of our short stay in Zermatt, we chose not to ski over to Italy. While it’s something we’d love to have checked off the list, there was a chance the weather could shift and leave us stranded on the Italian side—a risk we weren’t willing to take.

View of a Restaurant from a Zermatt Gondola

I counted at least 40 restaurants on the Zermatt ski resort map, but from what I’ve read, there may actually be over 50. The beauty of it is that many are independently run, each with its own distinct charm and atmosphere.

(I would like to take this moment to throw a little shade at my home resort, Whistler Blackcomb—with its 17 disappointing, overpriced, characterless Vail Resorts-run establishments—Zermatt is a refreshing change.)

THE 3 SKI AREAS OF ZERMATT

Zermatt’s ski area is divided into three main sections, each with its own character, terrain, and access points. Before our trip, I wondered whether we’d even be able to cover it all—but thanks to the resort’s efficient lift system (with minimal wait times), it turned out to be no problem at all.

View of the Matterhorn from a Zermatt Gondola

Getting to each of the three base access points from within the village of Zermatt was also surprisingly easy. With a valid lift pass, you can ride the town’s electric buses for free. So, if you’re not staying near your preferred lift, just hop on a bus. It’s only an 8-minute ride between the Sunnegga Funicular (at one end of the valley) and the Matterhorn Express (at the other). The Gornergrat Railway station sits right in between the two.

Each day, we chose our starting point based on where we wanted to end up for lunch. (If there’s a particular restaurant you’re hoping to visit, especially one with an epic patio view, be sure to make a reservation—it’s worth it!)

SKI AREAS DESCRIPTIONS

It should be noted that the Zermatt ski resort trail map is presented horizontally, but the far left (Sunnegga) is in the north and the far right (Matterhorn Express) is in the south. I only mention this because if you are using Google Maps as you move around Zermatt, the default orientation of north-south. See Matterhorn Ski Paradise trail map here.

SUNNEGGA-ROTHORN

Accessed via an underground funicular from Zermatt, followed by gondolas to Blauherd and Rothorn (3,103 m). This area offers sunny slopes, a variety of terrain, and is especially popular with families and intermediate skiers.

GORNERGRAT

Reached by the scenic Gornergrat Railway, a cogwheel train that climbs from the village of Zermatt up to 3,089 meters, this central sector is known for its wide, cruising runs and iconic Matterhorn views. It’s a great area for intermediate skiers and those looking for a relaxed alpine experience.

MATTERHORN GLACIER PARADISE / SCHWARZSEE

The highest section of the resort, accessed via the Matterhorn Express gondola and the 3S cable car to Klein Matterhorn (3,883 m). Here you’ll find glacier skiing, snow-sure conditions, and the option to ski over the border into Italy.

NOTE: If you plan on skiing into Italy, please just be mindful of the weather—lift closures due to changing conditions can occasionally prevent return access to Switzerland, so plan accordingly if you’re considering a cross-border day.

THE SKI TERRAIN AT ZERMATT

One of the biggest surprises for me at Zermatt was how impeccably groomed the runs were. I’ve never experienced anything quite like it in the U.S. or Canada.

A Ski Run at Zermatt with the Matterhorn in the Background

To be fair, we didn’t have any fresh snow while we were there—we had three incredible bluebird days—but still, I didn’t ski over a single mogul the entire time! I also didn’t see a single person fall. Just one slow tip-over… and that may have been the result of a liquid lunch.

It all felt very safe. Almost too safe… Do I secretly enjoy a little element of danger on the slopes? Maybe. But honestly, it was kind of relaxing—long cruiser runs with jaw-dropping views of the Matterhorn. Not a bad trade-off.

LIFT ETIQUETTE

One of the biggest surprises for me was more cultural than anything. This is Switzerland, after all—land of fast, efficient lifts and trains that run like clockwork. What I didn’t expect, however, were the line budgers.

I read someone describe the lift lines as more of a “lift scrum.” There are no alternating lanes, and queues do not seem orderly. Instead, people form a kind of semi-circle that gradually shuffles forward. Hesitate for a moment, and someone will inevitably slide in and claim the space. At first, I found this totally offensive. But once I caught on, I embraced it like a new sport.

To try to understand this, I turned to Reddit. From what I gathered, Zermatt skiers aren’t particularly bothered by line budgers—probably because the lift lines move quickly. And honestly, I could see that being true. Once again, I’ll cite my annoyance with Whistler Blackcomb, where 40-minute lines are not uncommon. God forbid anyone tries to budge in front of you there!

TRUE STORY: On just my second lift ride of the day, someone swooped in from behind, while I was standing in perfect row of 4, and stole my chair—mid-sit! I was pushed off to the side a bit stunned while the lift carried on without me. Now, for context: one of my (many) hobbies is silently judging people who mess up the lift line flow—so imagine my horror when I became one of them.

LONG ON-PISTE LUNCHES

The phrase “skiing to lunch” perfectly sums up the Zermatt ski experience, in my opinion. All morning long, I’d glide past incredible-looking mountain restaurants—and by 11:00 a.m., lunch was all I could think about.

Zermatt offers some of the most unforgettable on-mountain dining experiences in the Alps. A long, leisurely lunch on a terrace with Matterhorn views is an absolute must. Here are a few top spots

TIP: The following restaurants are extremely popular—advance reservations are highly recommended, especially during peak ski season. (We saw many people without them being turned away.)

@PARADISE

A standout for its stylish vibe, fusion-inspired menu, and unforgettable Matterhorn views. It’s modern, relaxed, and always buzzing—perfect for a long lunch in the sun. (This was my personal favorite…but there are many great options.)

CHEZ VRONY

Iconic and beloved for good reason, Vrony serves organic, alpine cuisine in a chic-rustic setting with spectacular scenery. It’s a Zermatt classic that lives up to the hype. (Michelin recommended.)

FINDLERHOF

Right next to Chez Vrony in the hamlet of Findeln, Findlerhof offers a warm, welcoming atmosphere and some of the best food on the mountain—particularly if you love Swiss-Italian flavors.

RESTAURANT ZUM SEE

Nestled below the slopes, this charming 350-year-old chalet is known for its gourmet Swiss dishes and peaceful ambiance. A wonderful reward after a morning of skiing. (Michelin recommended.)

ALPHITTA

For great Swiss comfort food, friendly service, and often live music, Alphitta is a local favorite with plenty of character and amazing views.

FLUHALP

High up on the mountain with sweeping views and a festive vibe, Fluhalp is known for hearty alpine dishes and live music on the terrace. A top pick for sunny ski days.

APRÈS SKI ZERMATT

Unlike lunching in Zermatt, I feel like après ski is something best discovered organically. For us, it happened as we skied down from Sunnegga and spotted a sign that read, “Champagne in 100m.” Moments later, a beautiful patio with Matterhorn views came into sight. With just a glance and a nod, we soon found ourselves sipping bubbly in the sun.

Here are some of Zermatt top après ski spots:

Champagne Bar, Zermatt — *Teehäuschen Flora Champagne Bar*

CHAMPAGNER BAR TEEHÄUSCHEN FLOR

A charming, low-key hut tucked beside the slope, offering champagne by the glass and cozy alpine vibes. It’s the perfect spot for a bubbly break with Matterhorn views.

Zermatt Champagne Bar — *Champagner Bar Teehäuschen Flora*

HENNU STALL

A slope-side institution known for wild parties, DJs, and dancing in ski boots just above the village. (Be mindful of the fact that you need to ski out when you finish up at this notorious party place!)

CERVO MOUNTAIN RESORT

A chic terrace bar offering craft cocktails, DJ sets, and stunning Matterhorn views.

HARRY’S SKI BAR

A casual, energetic hangout in town near the Sunnegga base station, ideal for beer, good company and dancing in ski boots.

Harry's Apres Ski Bar Zermatt — *Harry’s Après Zermatt*

PAPPERLA PUB

A lively and friendly spot in the heart of Zermatt, popular for live music and après vibes.

OTHER ZERMATT WINTER ACTIVITIES

If you have someone in your party who doesn’t ski or snowboard—or you’re simply taking a day off the slopes—Zermatt has plenty to offer.

SHOPPING

Zermatt’s charming, car-free village is perfect for strolling and browsing. Along Bahnhofstrasse, you’ll find everything from luxury Swiss watches (Breitling, Hublot, etc.) and high-end outdoor gear (Moncler, Bogner) to stylish boutiques and artisanal gifts. I

Even a simple trip to a grocery store can be unexpectedly fun. I had set out in search of some top-quality Swiss chocolate to bring home, but somehow my husband and I became hopelessly addicted to these little Kambly Matterhorn cookies (made with Swiss chocolate, of course). We ended up bringing about a dozen boxes home! As I write this, we’ve officially run out—and I’m so sad about it.

The perfect gift to say you’ve just been to Zermatt without saying you’ve just been to Zermatt. 😉

MATTERHORN MUSEUM

Tucked beneath the village square, this beautifully designed museum brings Zermatt’s mountaineering history to life. Exhibits include artifacts from the dramatic first ascent of the Matterhorn, reconstructed alpine homes, and stories of life in the valley.

Click here for tickets or to learn more.

Matterhorn Museum Zermatt — *Matterhorn Museum, Zermatt*

SPAS

If your accommodations don’t have one, several hotels offer day passes to their wellness areas—complete with saunas, steam rooms, outdoor hot tubs, and Matterhorn views. Two standout options are the Cervo Ātman Mountain Spa and the Spa Nescens at the Mont Cervin Palace.

SLOPE-SIDE LUNCHES

You don’t have to be a skier or snowboarder to enjoy one of those mountaintop lunches that the Alps are so famous for. Hop aboard the scenic Gornergrat Bahn Railway from town and stop at one of several stations with restaurants just a short walk away.

NOTE: Access to the Gornergrat Railway is included in a lift ticket, but will otherwise need to be purchased separately.

At the Gornergrat Summit, you’ll find the Glacier Alpine Kitchen, located within the 3100 Kulmhotel, serving a modern Alpine menu with panoramic mountain views.

At Riffelalp Station, both Alphitta (Swiss cuisine) and Al Bosco (Italian) offer hearty mountain fare with stunning Matterhorn vistas.

For a memorable meal near Riffelberg Station, head to Riffelhaus 1853—a historic hotel with a charming restaurant and sun-soaked terrace.

JULEN BLACK NOSE SHEEP FARM

Visiting the Julen family farm to learn about their Valais Blacknose sheep was my favorite off-mountain activity in Zermatt. The Julens run several hotels in town, the well-known Restaurant Schäferstube, and this charming farm, where you can join a guided tour on Wednesday evenings (winter only, departing from the Hotel Julen).

The tour is both informative and delicious, with tastings of their farm-produced goods. Guests gain insight into the family’s sustainable farming practices and learn about one of their newest initiatives: a biogas plant that converts over 1,700 tons of the town’s organic waste into clean energy.

To learn more or book a tour, visit julen.ch.

Zermatt Black Nosed Sheep at Julen Farm — *Zermatt Black Nosed Sheep*

MORE WINTER ACTIVITIES

Non-skiers can take the Matterhorn Express gondola or the scenic Gornergrat Railway for breathtaking views of the Alps, including the iconic Matterhorn. At the top, you’ll find a panoramic viewing platform, the Glacier Palace (an enchanting ice cave inside the glacier), and even the chance to book a paragliding flight for a once-in-a-lifetime descent over the snow-covered peaks. See the most highly rated activities on Viator.com below:

WHERE TO STAY IN ZERMATT

I’ll admit to obsessing over where to stay in Zermatt. There were a few things I didn’t fully grasp about the layout of the town and ski terrain until I was there. Let me share some tips for booking Zermatt ski resort hotels and other accommodations from my experience.

LOCATION

I was fixated on being close to a lift, but honestly, the village is small, and with three access points to the ski terrain, you likely won’t be far from one no matter where you stay. And if you’re not, you can take a free e-bus or a hotel shuttle, if offered.

MATTERHORN VIEW

I was also fixated on having a room with a Matterhorn view and was willing to pay quite a bit extra for it. The truth is though, as long as the weather is clear, you’ll probably see the Matterhorn from different vantage points all throughout the day. At our hotel, for example, we had a view from our room, the hotel restaurant, their patio, and even the pool!

ON MOUNTAIN OR IN VILLAGE

There are a couple of lovely hotels up the mountainside, accessible via the Gornergrat Railway, such as the 3100 Klumhotel Gornergrat, the Riffelhaus 1853. If you are considering either of these, just keep in mind that the trains run much less frequently in the evening, so you’ll need to work around that schedule. (We chatted with a couple one night who had to wait an extra hour for the next train.)

BOOK EARLY

Winter is Zermatt’s busiest time, especially around Christmas, New Year’s, and the February ski holidays, so book your accommodations several months in advance for the best selection and rates. The top-rated properties for Zermatt ski resort holidays always book out early!

I managed to eventually get the place I wanted, but only after checking back daily for a cancellation for several weeks. (In the meantime, I booked a fully refundable room on Booking.com as a backup.)

READ REVIEWS

Please always take a few extra minutes to read recent guest reviews carefully. You don’t want to be caught off guard by something like a pool being under renovation—especially since hotels aren’t always quick to disclose those details.

MINIMUM STAY

Many hotels enforce 5–7 night minimums over peak winter dates. We were there mid-week in February, and our hotel had a 4-night minimum.

BEST ZERMATT SKI RESORT HOTELS

I actually had a really hard time whittling down my list of the best Zermatt, Switzerland ski resort hotels because there are so many fantastic options. That said, here are my favorite 3-star, 4-star and 5-star properties

BEST ZERMATT 3 STAR HOTELS

HOTEL BELLA VISTA

9.3 Superb!

3★

Matterhorn Views

$$$

Hotel Bella Vista Zermatt — *Hotel Bella Vista – Image: Booking.com*

Hotel Bella Vista in Zermatt is a charming, family-run hotel that offers a warm and welcoming atmosphere with breathtaking views of the Matterhorn. Located just a short walk from the town center and 500m to Sunnegga funicular, it provides a perfect balance of comfort and convenience, ideal for skiers and those seeking a peaceful retreat.

Check rates for the Hotel Bella Vista on Booking.com.

Booking.com

HOTEL BRISTOL

TIP: Always check the total price, including cleaning and service fees, as these can add up quickly. For short stays (2-3 days), you might find that a hotel ends up being about the same price once all the fees are factored in.

FINAL THOUGHTS

I’ve tried to include everything I could think of in this post to help make your first ski trip to Zermatt as seamless and memorable as possible. But there’s one more thing I’d love to suggest: make an effort to connect with people while you’re there. For many—myself included—Zermatt is a once-in-a-lifetime experience, and I truly believe it’s best enjoyed as a shared one.

TRUE STORY – On our first evening, the only seats my husband and I could score at a restaurant we were excited to try were at the bar. As the night wore on, we found ourselves seated between a group of friends. We offered to move so they could all sit together, but they wouldn’t hear of it. They insisted we stay and join their party. Wine was shared, schnapps was passed around, and songs were sung…it was absolutely priceless!

LEARN MORE

Do you have specific questions about doing a first winter trip to Zermatt? Please feel free to reach out to me via direct message on Instagram, Facebook or by email.

Want to see more unique adventures? I would love for you to follow along with The Better Beyond on Instagram!