Les Saintes, Terre de Haut, Guadeloupe – A Caribbean Island Escape

Affiliate Disclosure: This Les Saintes, Terre de Haut post contains affiliate links. If you click a link and make a purchase, I may receive a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions are entirely my own.

INTRODUCTION

My husband and I can’t quite remember where we first heard about the tiny Caribbean island of Terre-de-Haut. It was likely featured in a magazine article (yes, the old-fashioned paper kind) about dreamy, remote destinations that few people had heard of.

This was back in 2006, and much like today, we found ourselves scrambling down the obsessive trip research rabbit hole. The destination captivated us so much that we decided to embark on a nearly 24-hour journey with a toddler and another on the way, all to experience this unique island paradise.

And memorable it was! We fell head-over-heels in love with charming Terre-de-Haut and spent many years trying to work our way back – finally with success in 2023 (and more recently in 2025). Strolling its quaint streets once again, we were delighted to discover that it was exactly as we remembered it.

Want to learn more? Please start with the following short video (< 2 min.) or use the menu to find what you need quickly.

TERRE DE HAUT, LES SAINTES VIDEO

I created this 2-minute video to give you a glimpse of Terre-de-Haut. Note the absence of cars! This island is best explored on foot, by scooter, or by golf cart!

ABOUT TERRE DE HAUT, GUADELOUPE

The Caribbean island of Terre-de-Haut is part of Les Saintes, a small archipelago belonging to Guadeloupe, an overseas department of France. It’s easily accessible by ferry from the main island of Guadeloupe, home to the international airport (PTP). While many visitors explore Terre-de-Haut as a day trip, we recommend staying a few days to truly soak in its charm.

Terre-de-Haut has the feel of a place where time has moved very slowly. Its only town was first settled by French fishermen from Brittany in the 1600s. Nearly 400 years later, their traditions—blended with vibrant Guadeloupean and Creole culture—have shaped a distinctive Santois identity, reflected in the local cuisine, charming pastel houses, and the unique blend of French and Antillean Creole spoken by many locals.

NOTE: Hundred of years before Christopher Columbus set foot on Guadeloupe, Les Saintes islands were used for hunting and fishing by the Arawaks and later the Caribs . While some of their artifacts have been unearthed, a permanent settlement was never established, likely due to a lack of spring water. Some of these artifacts can be viewed at Terre-de-Haut’s Fort Napoleon Museum.

TERRE-DE-HAUT MAP

I created this map for a couple of reasons. First, I want you to be able to zoom out and get a clear sense of where Terre-de-Haut is in relation to Guadeloupe. I’ve also marked my favorite beaches, sights, and restaurants on it in purple.

Please click on the map below or on this link for an interactive version. (The ferry dock is marked under the label “Les Saintes” with a boat icon. I couldn’t figure out how to change it.)

NOTE: The restaurants on Terre-de-Haut seem to change quite a bit from year to year. These favorites were plotted based on my March 2025 trip.

GETTING TO TERRE DE HAUT

TROIS RIVIERES TO TERRE DE HAUT

While some visitors arrive on the island by sailing vessel, motor vessel or even by private plane (there is a tiny runway), most people get to Terre-de-Haut via the ferry from Trois-Rivieres, Guadeloupe. Trois-Rivieres is on the south coast of the Basse-Terre side of Guadeloupe.

The ferry with the most regular service (several sailings a day) is CTM Deher . The company Val’Ferry also runs a couple of sailings daily. The sailing time is about 25 minutes.

Trois Rivières is about a 50-60 minute drive to the dock from Guadeloupe’s PTP international airport. We have used both a regular taxi service from the airport (90 euros) and have pre-booked a private car service using a company called Satevan (135 euros). I preferred that latter, despite the higher cost. (Coming off an economy seat, red-eye, I sometimes find a little higher level of service is worth it to me.)

Book your ferry tickets at least a week in advance as they can sell out. If you arrive at the dock in time to catch an earlier sailing, you can exchange your tickets at the booth for a small fee (50 centimes when we did it in 2023).

This CTM ferry is for foot passengers only – you do not need a car on Terre-de-Haut. If you happen to have a Guadeloupe rental car that you need to park for a few days, there is a parking lot at the dock just past the CTM ticket booth.

NOTE: You may want to keep your most important items (laptop, phone etc.) on you while you board and disembark. We saw one suitcase end up in the water as the crew attempted to toss it onto the dock.

POINTE-À-PITRE TO TERRE-DE-HAUT FERRY

If you’re looking for a ferry from Pointe-à-Pitre (which is much closer to the airport!) to Terre-de-Haut, I’m currently trying to get the most up-to-date information for you. There may be limited service with L’Express des Îles on Saturdays only, which could work for day trippers or those with a more flexible, extended stay.

As of this update (April 2025), I can confirm that Val’Ferry does not operate ferry service from Pointe-à-Pitre to Terre-de-Haut—despite what some sources online may suggest.

For now, the most regular and reliable ferry service to Terre-de-Haut continues to be from Trois-Rivières, Guadeloupe, with the company CTM Deher.

TERRE DE HAUT ISLAND – THE SCENE

The beauty of Terre-de-Haut island is that there is no scene. It is laid back – a little sleepy even. It’s the kind of place where residents sit out on the porches of their candy-coloured houses for hours, watching the comings and goings of town, never-failing to offer a polite “Bonjour” or “Bon Soir”.

There is also nothing boujie about Terre-de-Haut. There are no nightclubs or beach clubs. Instead, there are cute seaside restaurants (many with toes-in-the-sand dining), charming boutiques, several delightful patisseries and a different crowd-free beach for every day of the week (most with great snorkeling too).

As mentioned, many visitors to Terre-de-Haut come by ferry on day trips from Guadeloupe (it is also a popular cruise ship stop). To really get a feel for the place, however, you should stay a least a night, or better yet, three. The town is at its most charming in the mornings and evenings when it is crowd-free.

TRUE STORY: On a 5-day stay on Terre-de-Haut, after passing the same man about 10 times on our trips back and forth to town (and being offered a polite “Bonjour” or “Bonsoir” each time), he no longer bothered to modestly slip back inside his house in the evenings whilst smoking in his underwear. Were we shocked? No. On the contrary – we felt welcome.

BEST THINGS TO DO ON TERRE DE HAUT

1. EXPLORE TOWN

This charming village is one of the cutest in the Caribbean, filled with colorful family homes, local shops, and restaurants serving traditional Guadeloupean cuisine.

The town is also home to a few historic sites, including the Eglise de Notre-Dame de L’Assomption, a beautiful church built in the 19th century.

If you’re interested in shopping, simply stroll down the main street to discover a mix of boutiques and galleries. One of our favorite finds is Ultra Marine—a cute little shop offering well-priced women’s swimwear, beachwear, and accessories.

2. TERRE DE HAUT BEACHES

ANSE RODRIGUE

Our favorite beach on Terre-de Haut, and the one we like to visit several times, is Anse Rodrigue. I actually don’t know why it’s not more popular, especially considering that it is only a 20 minute walk from the ferry dock.

Anse Rodrigue has a sand beach and a protected bay with excellent snorkeling. It is framed by a beautiful meadow dotted with goats and sheep and offers a grassy area and several shade palms. It is a lovely beach for a picnic but it also conveniently has a little snack bar set in behind it with seating and a washroom.

NOTE: It is slightly rocky just beyond the ocean’s edge at this beach. If you are visiting with kids, you may want to bring water shoes for them.

THE BEACH TENT: I’ve had a few people ask about the beach tent shown above. We first spotted it on another Caribbean island—while we were frantically chasing down a runaway sun umbrella in a light breeze, someone nearby was lounging peacefully under their Neso shade.

I swear, we’ve tried every beach shade out there, and this one is hands-down the best. It’s lightweight, incredibly easy to set up (5 minutes) and take down (2 minutes), and it stays put even in pretty windy conditions. The one in the photo is The Classic model, ideal for two people (or a cozy four). We recently upgraded to The Gigante, which offers plenty of space for a small group. You can find both on the Neso Store on Amazon or directly from Neso.com.

ANSE DU PAIN DE SUCRE

Often mentioned as one of the top island beaches is Anse du Pain de Sucre. It has a nice protected bay that is perfect for a dip. It is also an ideal place for snorkeling as its waters are home to an array of colourful marine life, including sea turtles, tropical fish, and vibrant coral reefs.

This beach is really popular with day trippers (and, to be honest, a bit too crowded for my taste). It can be tricky to find a spot to sit, so try visiting in the early morning or late afternoon when it’s quieter.

The walk from the ferry dock takes about 30 minutes and includes some hills. If you’d prefer to skip the uphill trek, consider hiring an electric bike, scooter or golf cart.

ANSE CRAWEN

Personally, we much prefer Anse Crawen over Pain de Sucre (just a 10 minute walk further down the road, after the Hôtel Bois Joli). It’s nicely protected for swimming, has very decent snorkeling and the beach area is quite a bit larger. For animal lovers, there are also often feral goats wandering around.

On our most recent trip, we discovered something really special. About 150 meters off the middle of Anse Crawen beach, you can spot giant sea turtles feeding in the seagrass below. We’ve been lucky enough to snorkel with sea turtles throughout the Caribbean on numerous occasions, but these were by far the largest we’ve ever seen.

PLAGE DE POMPIERRE

On our first visit to Terre-de-Haut nearly 20 years ago, Plage de Pompierre was hands-down our favorite beach—with its golden stretch of sand, plenty of shade under the palms, good snorkeling, and a little snack bar tucked just behind.

In recent years, however, the beach has struggled with heavy accumulations of sargassum seaweed, a seasonal issue across many parts of the Caribbean. (See the “Need to Know” section at the end of this post for more on sargassum and tips for avoiding it.) In fact, when we visited in 2023, this beach was totally unusable.

UPDATE 2025: On our most recent trip, we were thrilled to see a new sargassum mitigation system in place (installed in February 2025). From what we could tell, offshore floats had been set up to redirect the seaweed so it only enters at one controlled point—making it easy to remove.

I wish I had a better photo (this one was taken in the evening with poor lighting), but the beach looked great. This new system seems really promising, and the recent reviews I’ve read about this beach suggest that Plage de Pompierre is well on its way back to its former glory. (If you visit, please send me a message about it!)

ANSE DU FOND CURE

And finally, while it can be a bit busy with fishing boats and other activity, Anse du Fond Cure in town is still a very pleasant beach. When you get off the ferry, turn right and walk about 400 meters—once you reach Coconuts, a laid-back local bar, just cross the road to access the beach.

NOTE: There are several great spots along this beach to enjoy a relaxed, toes-in-the-sand lunch—probably the closest thing you’ll find to a “scene” on the island. Two standouts are Ti Bo Doudou and Le Triangle. Be sure to make a reservation in advance to avoid disappointment (we simply stopped by the day before to book a table).

3. FORT NAPOLÉON

For a little colonial history and a fabulous view of the island, visit this historical landmark above the main harbour. Fort Napoleon was built in the early 19th century to protect the French from invaders.

These days, Fort Napoleon houses a museum that showcases the history of the island, including some pre-Columbian indigenous artifacts from the Arawak and Carib.

NOTE: The fort is only open daily from 9am-12:30pm.

As a visit to the Fort can be a very warm ordeal, be sure to try the locally made lemonade at the entrance. It’s delicious!

There is also a lookout just below the fort that absolutely brilliant for sunsets.

4. TERRE-DE-HAUT HIKING TRAILS

LE CHAMEAU

Get those steps in by hiking to the highest point on Terre-de-Haut. Le Chameau offers panoramic views of Terre-d-Haut and the surrounding Caribbean islands. The 7.6km roundtrip hike to the top is challenging (taking close to 3 hours) but the views are worth it.

Bring plenty of water and try to set out early in the day before it gets too hot! See the trail route on AllTrails.com.

FORT NAPOLEON HIKE

The hike up to Fort Napoléon offers some of the best panoramic views on Terre-de-Haut. The trail is short but steep, winding through dry coastal vegetation and opening up to sweeping vistas of the Les Saintes archipelago. The 6.9km is best done in the morning before the sun gets too intense. See the trail route on AllTrails.com.

5. EAT LIKE A LOCAL

Trying some of the local specialties is a must on Terre-de-Haut (often involving their bounty of fresh seafood). Most restaurants serve delicious accras (cod fritters), ceviche, and crêpes de poisson (fish crepes). Although we didn’t try it, boudin (blood sausage) is also very popular.

Tourment d’Amour (meaning “torment of love”) is also something that must be sampled. You will find these freshly baked sweet treats being sold in local grocery stores and on the street by the local ladies. The pastry is made from a sweet tart crust filled with a mixture of fruit, coconut, sugar, and vanilla. The filling is then baked until golden brown and caramelized.

Fancy a picnic while on the island? Ti Santois Boulangerie is a great place to pick up fresh bread and sandwiches. (Go early though. They open at 5:30 and sell out of the good stuff very early!)

There is also a fancy deli called Robbe Steack that has meats, cheeses and prepared salads.

The best gelato (IMHO) can be found directly across from the ferry terminal at Glaces Pays. (Don’t hesitate too long as top flavors sell out early!)

6. DAY TRIPS FROM TERRE-DE-HAUT

SNORKELING TRIP

Since most visitors only spend a short time on Terre-de-Haut, a day trip might not be necessary. But if you do have a bit of extra time, here’s a suggestion worth considering.

The company Mawaly offers 3-hour snorkeling excursions around the island. While we haven’t personally joined one of their tours, we’ve used their boat transfer service to visit the neighboring island of Terre-de-Bas and have often seen their groups snorkeling near sea turtles at Anse Crawen. It looks like a fun and efficient way to explore some of the island’s best coastal spots.

See: 3hr Snorkeling and Boat Trip (Mawaly)

NOTE: At the time of our visit, the Mawaly excursions were departing from the smaller dock beside the ferry dock.

KAYAKING, KITE SURFING, SUP & MORE

There are also a number of companies on Terre-de-Haut offering kayaking, stand-up-paddle-boarding and boat trips. Please see the following options.

• Donut Boat Rentals
• Stand Up Paddle Board Rentals
• Kite Surfing Lessons
• Clear Bottom Sea Kayaks

DAY TRIP TO TERRE-DE-BAS

If you’re planning an extended stay on Terre-de-Haut, you might consider a day trip to Terre-de-Bas, its smaller and quieter neighbor. For us, though—if I’m being totally honest—it was a bit of a bust.

We used the Mawaly transfer service, based on a recommendation from the Terre-de-Haut tourism office (located right across from the ferry dock). They tourism office employee told us we could buy tickets directly on board, but failed to mention that the boat departs from a different dock than the main ferry. As shown in the photo above—that’s the boat pulling away without us. To make matters worse, someone on the dock later informed us that it was full anyway.

We did eventually make it over the next day by booking online with Mawaly. Our plan was to go for lunch on Terre-de-Bas, take a taxi to the far end of the island to enjoy the beach, and then hike the coastal section of the Tour de Terre Bas trail back to the ferry dock. But… things didn’t quite go as planned (as happens sometimes).

Despite trying to book a day ahead, we couldn’t get a reservation at the island’s best-known restaurant, Chez Eugénette, and ended up with a disappointing two-hour lunch elsewhere. By the time we made it to the beach, strong winds had picked up, sending sand flying and cutting our visit short. We also ran out of time for the coastal hike and had to return to the dock by taxi.

Am I saying don’t go? Not necessarily. But if you only have a few days, I’d recommend focusing your time on Terre-de-Haut. And if you do visit Terre-de-Bas—just don’t make the same mistakes we did!

GETTING AROUND TERRE DE HAUT

While we enjoy walking around the island (helps balance out all those irresistible French pastries), we typically rent a golf cart for one day. It’s especially handy if you plan to visit Fort Napoléon, which sits atop a steep hill.

We rent from Aqua Blue and have had a great experience with them. They have both 2-seater and 4-seater golf carts. If you are traveling with children, they also provide car seats and booster seats.

Golf carts are in high demand on Terre-de-Haut, so it’s best to reserve ahead of time. That said, you can sometimes snag one by showing up right at opening or just before closing, when last-minute cancellations may open up availability. We usually do this to avoid the 2-day minimum rental required for online bookings and opt instead for a 24-hour rental (5 p.m. to 5 p.m.).

Prices are fairly standard around the island—about €80 for a day, or €90 for 24 hours. Just a heads-up: rental companies typically place a sizable damage deposit hold on your credit card, usually between €800 and €1,200.

If a golf cart is out of your budget, there are plenty of places on the island offering scooter and e-bike rentals. Expect to pay around €40–50 per day for a scooter and €20–30 per day for an e-bike—plus, the damage deposits are much lower than those for golf carts.

Eco Scoot gets good reviews (scooters) as does Loca Bikes (e-bikes). Alternatively, when you come off the ferry, turn right, and you will pass many places along the road offering both.

See also: E-Bike Rental Terre-de-Haut

TERRE DE HAUT HOTELS & VACATION RENTALS

WHERE TO STAY ON TERRE-DE-HAUT

If possible, I’d love for you to stay near the main village—often referred to as Le Bourg. I say near because the central streets can get a bit noisy at times (scooters zipping by, etc.), so in a perfect world, you’d be about a 5–10 minute walk away, ideally with a view of the harbor.

In my opinion, staying close to town really enhances the experience—you can stroll in for a morning cappuccino and pastry, or a sunset cocktail, and truly feel like you’re part of the village rhythm.

BEST TERRE DE HAUT HOTELS

There are not many hotels on Terre-de-Haut and they are all of the boutique hotel variety.

​Résidence Hôtelière Hurlevent offers eight modern and elegantly furnished suites with stunning views of the Bay of Les Saintes. Guests can enjoy amenities such as a pool and spacious terrace, all within a five-minute walk from the town center.

The simple, yet charming LoBleu Hotel is located right on the beach and is only an 8-min. walk from the ferry dock. This property offers 11-rooms, many with sea views, and a terrace offering panoramic vistas of the Bay of Les Saintes.

Les Petits Saints is a charming and colorful boutique hotel located about a 12 minutes walk (uphill) from town that offers panoramic views of the Bay of Les Saintes. Guests can enjoy comfortable accommodations, an on-site restaurant and a pool with a beautiful view of town. (We stayed here on our first trip to Terre-de-Haut with our toddler and enjoyed it very much.)

Hotel Bois Joli is a nice property featuring an outdoor swimming pool, private beach access, and a restaurant. It is further from town, but offers a shuttle service for guests (free during the day, small fee in the evenings).

See more Terre de Haut hotels on Expedia.com.

TERRE DE HAUT VACATION RENTALS

There are also a number of really delightful vacation rental homes on the island. It is actually my preferred option in terms of Terre-de-Haut accommodations because it make me feel more like a local.

NOTE: As I mentioned earlier, I think it’s really nice to stay close to town. That said, I have one extra tip. If you take another look at my Google Map again, you will see that between the restaurant Les Balançoires and the LoBleu Hotel, there is a green rectangle jutting out into the ocean —that’s the recycling depot. From Monday to Friday, work there kicks off bright and early around 6 a.m., and it gets loud. (The depot is closed on weekends, thankfully.) Our beloved rental Ti Corail sits just above it, so let’s just say our weekday mornings start a little early. It’s a good thing I love to watch the sun rise! 😂

Ti Corail is just the most lovely Terre-de-Haut vacation rental. It has 2 air-conditioned bedrooms, an outdoor shower, an outdoor kitchen, living room and patio. It also has a plunge pool with a great view of the harbour. This unit could work well for families with young children, as the pool has a safety gate and there was a playpen in a bedroom closet.

Take a peek at Ti Corail on VRBO or check out the following 30 sec. video. Alternatively, see more Terre de Haut vacation rentals on VRBO.com.

TERRE DE HAUT – THE NEED TO KNOW

I often find that it takes me a few days to figure out how a new place works. Hopefully, these tips will help to make your Terre-de-Haut holiday flow seamlessly.

COMMUNICATIONS

Even if you speak some French, getting information or reservations on this island can be a bit tricky. Many websites—for ferries, activities, or restaurants—aren’t exactly user-friendly. Email responses can be hit or miss, so your best bet is to call, message on WhatsApp, or—ideally—wait until you’re on the island and speak to someone in person (this worked best for us). For example, we found it easiest to pop by a restaurant the day before to reserve a table face-to-face.

If you are doing something important, like boarding a ferry when there are two in port, I would confirm, confirm and confirm again that you are getting on the correct boat. We were told 3 times to get on the incorrect boat when leaving the island, only narrowly missing ending up back on Guadeloupe when we were actually heading to the island of Marie-Galante! 🤣

RESTAURANTS

The best restaurants on Terre-de-Haut tend to book up in advance, so it’s a good idea to make reservations ahead of time when possible. Many places are closed on Mondays and Tuesdays, so plan accordingly.

Tipping isn’t customary on Terre-de-Haut—or throughout most of Guadeloupe. In many restaurants, you’ll be expected to pay at the bar, and if you’re paying by credit card, you likely won’t even be given the option to add a tip.

DRIVING RULES

Despite its small size, Terre-de-Haut takes traffic rules seriously. We were warned that police won’t hesitate to ticket golf cart or scooter drivers who park improperly, and they may conduct roadside breathalyzer tests if they suspect you’ve been drinking.

On our most recent visit, we were actually pulled over in our golf cart for not wearing seatbelts. (The officers were very friendly and just gave us a warning—but still, a good reminder to buckle up!)

KNOWING A LITTLE FRENCH

Most people on the island speak at least a little English, but knowing some French definitely helps. Spending a few minutes a day on an app like Duolingo or Babbel can make a big difference.

Even if you don’t speak much French, starting your interactions with a “Bonjour” or “Bonsoir” can go a long way in building bridges with the locals – both with people you pass on the street and in stores and restaurants. (Especially in today’s super-charged political climate, a little effort and kindness can go a long way.)

SHOPPING

Plan to shop early or late—many stores close between 12–3 p.m., and quite a few are closed on Sundays. If you’re self-catering, keep in mind that fresh produce tends to disappear quickly once it hits the shelves. (If you’re spending time on mainland Guadeloupe before coming to Terre-de-Haut, consider picking up some groceries there—the selection is much better on the larger island.)

WATCH FOR MANCHINEEL TREES

Please be advised that poisonous Manchineel trees are found on the beaches of Guadeloupe and the Les Saintes Islands. These trees have little green apples on them that are very poisonous. While they can provide nice shade from the sun, if you happen to be under them during a rain, the drips can cause blisters on your skin. Best just to AVOID.

Most of the time (but not always) the trees are marked with red paint around the trunk. There are also usually signs warning of their presence. Learn more about the deadly manchineel tree.

MOSQUITOES

As in many tropical destinations, mosquitoes can be an issue on Guadeloupe, Terre-de-Haut and other neighboring islands. Beyond being a nuisance, they can also carry diseases such as dengue. I highly recommend using mosquito repellent during your stay in the Caribbean—especially in the early morning and evening hours when they’re most active.

SARGASSUM SEAWEED (AND HOW TO AVOID IT)

Sargassum seaweed started washing up on Caribbean beaches around 2011. It originates in the Sargasso Sea which is just northwest of the Caribbean and floats west with the currents, typically ending up on the east coast beaches.

This new “Sargassum Season” for the Caribbean usually runs from April to August. The photo below, however, was taken from Marigot Bay on Terre-de-Haut in March 2023. At this time, the lovely Plage Pompière and Grand Anse were also covered in sargassum.

HOW TO AVOID SARGASSUM SEAWEED

Sargassum rarely lands on west coast beaches in the Caribbean, so if you happen to be on Terre-de-Hauit during a bad bloom, try visiting the beaches of Rodrigue, Figuer, Crawen and Pain de Sucre. The photo below was taken at Anse Crawen (west island beach) on the same day as the one from Marigot (east island beach) above. The dark stuff in the water is coral not seaweed!

Please forgive my very basic little diagram here, but hopefully this will help you if sargassum is an issue. Also keep this in mind if you are visiting another Caribbean island. Go west if sargassum seaweed is an issue!

See also: How to avoid Sargassum Seaweed in the Caribbean

LEARN MORE

I really hope you fall in love with the island of Terre-de-Haut, just as we have. If you have questions, please feel free to reach out to me via direct message on Instagram, Facebook or by email.

Want to see more unique adventures? I would love for you to follow along with The Better Beyond on Instagram!

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